Estonia 010 Stereo - block stereo complex, music center.

Release since 1983 at the Punane-Rat Talin plant

The stereo complex consists of separate units: a tuner, a pre-amplifier, an electric player and two active acoustic systems.
The tuner has two ranges - VHF and MW, silent tuning in the VHF range, fine tuning indicator, "mono - stereo" indicator, automatic shutdown AFC when setting up, voltage calibrator for adjusting the recording level of an external tape recorder, multi-beam reception indicator.
The preamplifier has separate controls for volume, balance and timbre, switching two stereo tape recorders, limiting filters for low and high frequencies, switchable loudness compensation, flat frequency response clamping device, LED indication of the input signal level, overload indicator, electronic protection against short circuit in the load.
The turntable has program control tonearm, disk rotation speed regulator with stroboscopic control, microlift and hitchhiking.
The set-top box tape recorder has a bias current adjustment, an LED indicator of the recording and playback level, an electronic tape meter, a "noise reduction" system.
The music center consisted of an acoustic system: 35АС-021

Technical data:

- Rated output power- 2x50 W;
- Sensitivity in the ranges - 2 MKV (VHF); 100 MKV (DV, SV, KV);
- Ranges of reproducible frequencies - 20-20000 Hz;
- Knock coefficient - 0.08%;
- Disk rotation frequency - 33 and 45 rpm;
- The speed of the magnetic tape - 4.76 cm / s;
- The level of interference in the channel - "-54" dB;
- Power consumption - 260 watts.

Dimensions: 460x390x400 mm (complex); 540x330x320 (AC);
Weight: 53 kg. (complex); 19 (AC)

***
Electronics D1-014-quadro
Then (1978) it cost 614 rubles. Weighed 20 kg. That you can stuff 20 kg there - I don’t know.
The circulation and current cost are unknown, as well as the availability of live copies.

***
Its predecessor is Jupiter Quadro Amplifier (1975)
Then it cost 500 rubles. Eyewitnesses claim that these amplifiers have been gathering dust on store shelves for years. Indeed, the policy of the party and the government in this matter is vague: the amplifiers have been riveted, and what to do with them? There are no recordings, no means of reproduction.
As far as I understand, it was produced for several years. For some reason. The circulation is probably several thousand.
The price is now in the range of 5000-10000 rubles.

***
How can there be any means of reproduction, you will say here, if Jupiter Quadro is a mafon. Produced in the mid-70s in the same place, in Ukraine.

A mysterious thing, I will answer you, and it is somewhat more ghostly than anything else in this raging world. Regarding the existing copies on the Internet, there are pictures only from the Museum of Communications in St. Petersburg. There is no TX description. It is clear that it is based on Jupiter-202-stereo. Unclear:
- is there a recording function at all (such buttons are not visible);
- I wonder what kind of bosses there are;
- is there a built-in amplifier or is it a prefix? Jupiter-202 is; if there is in this, then why then the separate amplifier of the same name, described above? Here on the tape recorder at the bottom of the turntables there are inscriptions "front", "rear" - what is this, if not amplification? But here they are, complete with an amplifier:

Why so? Is the amplifier bad in the tape recorder, and the separate amplifier is good? (A dude with a smart look is spinning something selflessly, despite the fact that the right handle is in the "stop" position - hey.)
They write that then it seemed to cost 1,500 rubles. The circulation is unknown. The "Prototype" can be disassembled on the plate for the museum copy. However, there are people who claim to have heard and felt the whole thing in everyday life in those distant years.

The quadras are over, the main part has gone.
***
Complex Estonia-010
Like a decent choice for a respectable person.
Ripped off with Sharp Optonica.
As a rule, a complete complex is considered to be in the composition: two amplifiers (preliminary and powerful), a tuner (010, then demoted to the T-110C, but they are exactly the same), a vertical and well, and speakers like 35AC-021. On this, people calm down. All this is now not uncommon and quite purchasable, therefore we will not get too hung up on, but we will go through for the sake of order.

*
Vertak. Looks fashionable and mysterious.

No, it's not a spare tonearm. This is a sensor for automatic search records. The diode shines, the plate reflects - something like that. You could press the buttons and it jumped over the songs. As far as I know, this is the only Soviet helicopter with such a stray. People, however, swear that all these bells and whistles are rather unreliable and often fail.
It stands now in the region of 4000.

*
Tuners, twin brothers, and amplifiers.

*
UP and UM in a rare black color.

*
Now we plunge into the world of the unknown.
To all this wealth, the especially advanced add another CD-player Estonia LP-010-stereo.

Well, as they add ... it does not fit inside the rack, only to the very top. Because he has a CD where it goes, see?

Those. it's either vinyl or CD. Well, or you can put one of them somewhere funnel.
The prototype in this case was Philips-100, but the design was left by Sharpovsky.
Circulation 50 pcs. - "a former plant worker said."
However, there is also such a statement: "I personally saw this Estonia (with TOP load) in FREE sale in GUM. It cost like 1100 rubles, I don't remember exactly."

*
Well, another ghost - the Estonia-110-stereo cassette player.

Anonymous saw the design pattern. Somewhere and once he existed, and perhaps not even one.
"as the person claims during the development, several models were made, but nothing went on sale"
According to other statements, several dozen or even 100 copies were made. It is highly doubtful; from such a quantity something would surely come out, but at the present time nothing is observed.

*
Did you think that was all? And then suddenly - vigil!

We look from the bottom up, first there are familiar objects: UM, UP, tuner ... And then - the queen of heaven! - what is this?
- Installation of light-dynamic. (As I understand it, the device only blinks with lights merrily, does nothing else. And yes, there is still a clock in it.)
- Graphic equalizer
- Video game block. Why is it needed, no one knows. Connects to a TV; what happens next is unknown. But also with a watch.

Presumably, these three items exist in single copies and are the fruit of folk art of individual workers of the plant. In the era of late perestroika, they were perverted as best they could. Something in between a samopal and experimental samples.
Over9000 headphone outputs are especially delivered.
Well, Estonia is no longer there.

*
Here are the data on the quantity produced (everything is in Estonian, and Google, with some fright, sometimes translates ESTONIA as IRELAND - yyy!):
IRELAND-010 stereo - receiver 1982-92 for a total of 13 121
IRELAND-010-stereo - preamp 1982-92 for a total of 35,347
ESTONIA-010-stereo - Disc 1982-92 for a total of 29,762
ESTONIA - 010-stereo - power amplifier 1985-92 for a total of 34,896
25AS 021 - a total of 73,398 sound system in 1985-90
IRELAND-001-C - laser disc player 1987-89 for a total of 2454
http://raadiotuba.and.ee/retpunaneret.html

***
As far as can be judged, towards the end of the 80s it was planned to launch the next series of equipment in Estonia. But then the cheerful breeze of perestroika blew, and a total mess began. Old plans collapsed, what could be mastered was released.
From the new line, the following came out.

***
Estonia LP-001-S

Stripped, in turn, with Philips CD204.
Unlike LP-010, where almost all the parts were domestic, it was molded mostly from bourgeois components.
The link above declares that a total of 2,454 units were produced. But on this occasion there is a hot shit.
For this device, the range of price tags is very wide - from 2,000 to 25,000 rubles. depending on how it is perceived: utilitarian or collectible.

The same, only a prototype
"it still exists, as many as 2 pieces, one at home, the second in MSC"

*
Estonia-35U-016, complete amplifier (as opposed to two separate units of the previous series).
There is a mention of the produced 600 copies. It is possible that it was so.
However, it costs not prohibitively - about 6,000 rubles. UPD 11.2015 Recently left for 30,000. It looks like they are hiding something from us ...

*
The following devices exist, probably only in single prototypes.

Estonia EP 016 S, vertak.
There is no information on the release. TX in the third picture.
No one has seen live specimens.

In the recent past, and to be precise in 2003, I switched from to, initially I drove them with an amplifier from some old reel-to-reel tape recorder (I no longer remember the manufacturer's brand or model), then I switched to the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier, but Soon it was not enough for me too. In 2004, after a long search on the Internet and in the relevant literature, I bought myself. Then he began to search good amplifier power. Unfortunately, in Ukraine, it is problematic to find something worthwhile, mainly amplifiers were offered, which were not even worth performing in a block design, since their sound did not deserve it. And then one day I was lucky to find two applicants at once, namely: Estonia um-010 (though I had to take it together with the Estonia up-010 preamplifier) ​​and Priboy 75-UM-204s.
Below are photos of these wonders of technology:

Initially, I leaned towards the Surf amplifier, for the reason that there are lamps. After studying the information on the sound of the tube, I abandoned this venture, due to the circumstances that the lamps do not last long, it is difficult to choose lamps with the same sound, the need for acoustics with high sensitivity, and to a large extent the sound depends on the quality of the output transformers, and , looking at their condition, I was horrified, since the winding was just disgusting.

Speaking in Russian, S-90 Surf is simply not able to stir up normally.

For this reason, I bought the Estonia kit. Let's proceed to a detailed examination of this kit.

Pre-amplifier Estonia UP-010

When I brought the device home, I wanted to listen to it in order to decide which Estonia UP-010 or Radiotehnika UP-001 is better. From the aesthetic point of view, the soul was more inclined towards the Estonian, since the width of the amplifier of Radiotehnika and Estonia is different, and the complex would look prettier. After connecting, it was immediately clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state, a monotonous whistling was heard in the high-frequency part of the spectrum - and this indicates that the electrolytes most likely dried up and high-frequency interference appeared. Having sent a signal to the input and connected the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier to the output (before that I turned on the Radiotehnika U-001 preamplifier through the Radiotehnika U-101, so for the purity of the experiment I repeated this circuit), I was deeply disappointed. The sound was unpleasant, a little dry and harsh, and the sound from Radiotehnika U-001 was just crystal clear, soft, delicate and transparent. It is clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state, for this reason it is too early to judge the quality, then I decided to look at its circuit (before that I was not interested in it since I already had a preliminary one, but I did not have a power amplifier and it was the circuit I was looking for power amplifiers for myself). Looking at the diagram, everything became clear, the creators actively used microcircuits in the sound path, and not the most best quality... In general, when repairing the amplifier, it was possible to achieve a cultural sound from it, but it was not worth expecting a special quality, for this reason it was successfully resold. If someone is interested, then the diagram is shown below.

Power amplifier Estonia UM-010

Then it was time to listen to the power amplifier. By connecting it to the acoustics and pre-amplifier Radiotehnika U-001 started listening.

The sound of the amplifier was excellent, the sound was just fabulous. I really liked the detail in the entire audio range. I liked the fact that the sound was soft and unobtrusive, the middle in the sound range was just wonderfully worked out, the top was also on top, the cymbals sounded distinctly and cleanly case there is an amplifier and better, secondly, sound is a relative concept and very much depends on the ears of the listener, and I do not have specific equipment for taking characteristics).
Bass, specially highlighted as a separate link, since this part deserves detailed consideration. The bass amplifier was amazing because the designers made sure that the amplifier had adequate energy reserves to provide a powerful sound. Let's start with the fact that on board we have a powerful trance with a power of about 450 watts, which is more than enough for such an amplifier, capacities of 15000 microfarads per channel are also used, it should also be noted that the capacities are good, and most likely they will still survive the amplifier itself (I was a little surprised as in our country geniuses are invented, and, as always, alcoholics collect (meaning the Soviet Union)). In general, the amplifier is very successful, there are undoubtedly opinions that the current should be taken to the landfill, but personally I do not agree with this, and in the end it can always be improved and modified, thank God the field for action is quite extensive, you can start, for example, with the installation good capacitors, or, for example, go through all the transistors and put in better ones (not necessarily import, we also knew a thing or two). It is also pleasing that there are no microcircuits in the sound path at all (they roughen up the sound a little, and the microcircuits of those times simply disfigure the sound). For those who are interested in the diagram, I give it below:

In conclusion, I would like to note that in our homeland they also knew how to make good audio products, although they often did it in some incomprehensible way (certainly not by hand), but nevertheless, with proper adjustment and appropriate refinement, our equipment easily plugs fancy imports into the belt, in which the lion's share of the cost of the device is taken for the firm.

• Lan, thanks for the chat! I really wanted to help, but, apparently, we figured it out without "no snotty" .... :)))
• Thank you for communicating, in any case, it is useful to hear a different opinion, because this is the only way to really grasp the essence of the problem ... Personally, I would be grateful if you share some more information about this problem, or about other problems (we the forum is quite enough of them) ....;) :)
• You can elaborate on the essence of the problem. If the matter is in protection, and if you understood correctly the speech about Estonia-010, there the protection seems to cut off the 220v power supply, and not the speakers. In short, if it is in a 220v circuit, then we connect it directly so that there is power. If on the speakers - the speakers are not connected. And we check the presence of constant voltage at the outputs. If it is, then it can be: 1. open circuit (or fuse) + or - power supply. 2. breakdown of the output or pre-output transistor (determined by plugging the tester to the E-K, naturally with the mustache off). 3. Incorrectly adjusted gain. If the tester pointed to the transistors, then you need to stick nails instead of fuses, and turn ON the 40-60W LIGHT BULB in the 220v circuit break, if something is wrong, it will limit the short-circuit current. If everything is fine, it practically doesn’t hurt.
• about "corvettes": I personally listened (I can't name the brand for sure, if it's important, I can find out) with the speakers Radiotehnika S400, this is power! I haven't heard such a sound for a long time, but the cost of these speakers is very frightening!
• Power is not yet an indicator of quality, I had a chance to listen to home-made systems from a friend, with a power of 30 W the sound was quite powerful and natural (of everything I have ever listened to, this is the best, against that system, the scoop nervously smokes on the sidelines, but there the cost of the components is not commensurate with the cost of a scoop). In general, the sound for discos needs a powerful one, but for a house it is of high quality, especially if you consider that most of the time the amplifier produces a small power (for example, I have an ordinary power of about 2-5 W).
• I agree, but I used the word "power" not in the same sense, but in what you thought! I meant that it was a combination of quality, power and cost + very good appearance(the standing of this apparatus was at a rather high level).
• Everything is relative....
• I completely agree, everything, especially when it comes to sound, is learned by comparison
• People, the topic is not new, but I would like to clarify something. I am now on the verge of acquiring the next device, and now my hands have reached this product. Several questions have appeared, so I hope for you: 1 - What resistance is it designed for with respect to the speakers: 4 or 8 ohms (the question is fundamental, since there are no 4 ohm speakers in my collection, all are 8 ohms.)? 2 - How much is its rated output power? 3 - How many columns are pulled by only two, or four ( it comes about C90 and its modifications)? 4 - What should you pay attention to when buying, what nodes can fail on the old device? 5 - what price range is typical for it (in good condition), this is important, since common man he for one price, and the seller for another. 6 - Is it worth taking him to his family unit, or is it better to stop at Radio Engineering UP-001? P.S. I take these devices at once in a quantity of 4 pieces, so before making a choice, I decided to take an interest.
• 8 ohms, but it can work at 4 ohms, although the protection can start to be capricious; About 50 W, nominal, real, how much in the passport I do not know. Someone measured more accurately in my opinion there was a figure of 40-45 W nominal, 75-80 maximum. Two, but allows you to include 4 by itself, which is in parallel. But in this case, he may start to be capricious. Demand disassembly of the device and make sure of virginity printed circuit boards, be sure to check the constant at the output, if it is small, then it is treated by adjustment, if the large one is likely to be punctured by transistors in the exhaust, everything else is treated easily and do not forget to listen. If you poke around in it, do not mess with it, since the quality of the PP is poor and the tracks easily begin to flake off. About $ 100. It is unlikely that more, I took my kit in a used equipment store for $ 80. Listen to it, maybe you will like it, as the pre looks harmonious with the relic, but the UP-001, unfortunately, is not, since it is 30 mm narrower.
• Uh-huh, so all the columns C90B, D, F, all 8 ohms will pump the 90s? I listened, shakes, but all the same: D Not so many amplifiers, which will not be capricious with 4 C90.: cool: UGU, there is a pair with whole seals, they are first of all yes, more prices I have not seen. It's not really about the appearance, but about the sound quality. Well, this is comprehensible by comparison, so we will listen.
• In the sense of "pumps", what do you need quality or decibels? If the quality - the S-90 plays quite normally from 1 W, a very pleasant volume level is set at 5-10 W, it does not yell, but it is far from quiet, the sound is also leveled, that is, the lack of bass inherent in low volume goes away, a further increase in the supplied power leads to an increase in the volume level, practically without changing the quality, so up to about 30-40 W (its nominal value, if you remember), a further increase in power makes the speakers play even louder, BUT !, the quality of the midrange / high frequency links sharply decreases. If you need to scream and screech, then prop the S-ki with a hefty sub, for example, 2 75gdn, and pump 250 watts into it (do not worry, 75-ki generally digest up to 125-150 normally, provided the coil is cooled normally) , but this is a separate story and for such an undertaking it is better not to take Estonians, let them better go to homemade / connoisseurs of quality and not loudness.
• Let me explain that for quality I take Estonians, and for power I take several at once. It is the Soviet technology that is important for the event, the room is not large, only about 100 sq.m. so 4 amps and 8 speakers are enough. I thought about corvettes, but changed my mind. There was a thought about my UM-7011 (by the way, I was presented with his own Up-7010, though it was killed to smithereens, but this is even so rare), he pulls four jibs of 150Ac normally, but it became a pity. So at work I also have professional equipment for events, but the stated condition interferes with its use. By the way, after all the action, I will get all this wealth, so I will be the happy owner of such a technique in such an amount. (Although one Estonian with a pair of speakers is enough for a home) ANOTHER question: remember speakers such as the 35AC-028 corvette (analogue of the S90D), they also have an impedance of 8 ohms, can they also be used for an Estonian? (it's just that right now I'm the most active buyer of S90V, D, F in the city, I need 8 pieces in a normal state (I don't want to use mine), I have already found 6 pieces, but I can't, only the corvette remained)
• We remember seeing, but not listening. Of course, you can connect them to the Estonian, my Estonian generally worked at 4 ohms and nothing ...
• As I said, this will become mine later, so I think that not a lot of variety is needed, although it appears only in the state and design.
• Yes, if all that technique is turned on in a small room ...
• My friend says this: if I listen to music, the whole entrance listens to it ... BUT, this is only in the daytime ... and when there are no little ones in the apartment ... alas, (- this does not happen often .. ..
• Good afternoon, dear specialists. UM 010 Estonia, when turned on, the red protection signal is constantly on. Moreover, when the power is turned on, the speakers enjoy a characteristic click, but there is no noise. How to check its performance in the absence of a preamplifier?
• send a signal through the simplest volume control, with a level of 1 ... 1.5v (and not 0.5v as before)
• Most likely you have one channel dead, if when you turn on a strong cotton, then this is a constant at the output. And on the occasion of anticipating Estonia 010 I completely agree (they themselves had 2a), the sound leaves much to be desired, the terminal heard, but in a strong ecstasy he was not, maybe he did not hear. I have Corvette 048 myself, though I upgraded it, overall not bad.

Hello, dear Datagoreans!
I share with you my own experience in mastering the board Arduino UNO and the Atmega 328 controller, which is installed on it. This board was bought a long time ago, and was quietly waiting for its turn for some very first craft in the back drawer of my desk.

The line arrived unexpectedly. I have an Estonia 010 turntable, which is fully automatic. I put the record on, pressed two buttons: "Network" and "Start". The player will do the rest for you. Up to a certain point the player worked, conscientiously fulfilling its functions, when suddenly it stopped giving signs of life, completely refusing to move the arm and not responding to pressing the control buttons.

Historical reference

This is "Estonia 010", which was produced by our industry in the 80s of the last century. The characteristics are impressive. Nominal frequency range, Hz - 20 ... 20000. Knock coefficient,% - 0.08. The relative level of rumble, dB -74. Dimensions, mm - 480x108x384. Weight, kg - 12.
Like many other things (), this device is a slightly less successful Soviet copy of a foreign one, namely SHARP Optonica RP-7100. For example, quartz stabilization of the drive speed, etc. is not implemented.

And here is the prototype - the Japanese Optonica.

Photo by Optonics - Gonchar, Moscow

When the Estonian was opened, the automation board appeared in front of me. That scarf! It houses over 20 cases of Soviet logic microcircuits and opamp. Seeing so many microcircuits, I winced and threw the board out of the player.
I really didn't want to poke an oscilloscope probe into it.

Two parts were removed: the K155ID4 song display decoder and a resistor for powering the infrared LED, which is installed on the additional tonearm in the plate pause detector.

Instead of the original filling, it was decided to try to adapt "that same Arduina" for control. And work ... I’m lying if I say that it’s boiling. Work began to gurgle lazily in free time for gurgling.

--
Thank you for your attention!

We have three relays, indication of their position, pull-up resistors of limit switches, a decoder of song numbers, and a KR544UD2 opamp with trimming resistors to adjust the threshold and amplify the signal from the phototransistor.

--
Thank you for your attention!
Igor Kotov, editor-in-chief of the magazine "Datagor"

const int analogInPin = A5; // keys int sensorValue = 0; // read value void setup () (Serial.begin (9600);) void loop () (sensorValue = analogRead (analogInPin); Serial.print ("sensor ="); Serial.print (sensorValue); delay (200) ;)
Launched the "Terminal" program, setting it up with following parameters: baud rate 9600, 8-N-1 and COM port on which Arduino was detected. I have COM12.
After the connection was established, numbers ran across the screen, which changed depending on the pressing of one or another button. By simply rewriting them on paper for each pressed button, I was able to figure out the entire range of values, which I then (with small tolerances) substituted into the main sketch. The sketch was edited with the Arduino 1.7.8 program.

About setting up optics

Oh, and this is a difficult job, to remove a raccoon from the swamp ...
The sensitivity setting is immediately set to the maximum, we operate only with the threshold. You can't go anywhere without an oscilloscope. We set a slow sweep so that the green dot barely crawls across the screen, stand up with the oscilloscope at the output of the op-amp and begin to rotate the sensitivity trimmer upwards until the voltage changes from 2.5 to 3.5 volts or more.

The voltage will change abruptly. We wind back just a little so that the voltage becomes 2.5 Volts again. Move the tonearm slowly over the record. If the voltage jumps to 3.5 Volts during the passage of the sensor over the pauses, we are very lucky, we praise the tin god by burning him with rosin incense and no longer touch the trimmer.
If not, we put a white sheet of paper under the sensor to make sure that it is in good working order and we did not mess anything up in the circuit. As a rule, there is an error-free working out on a white sheet.

If the voltage level changes on a white sheet, but not on a pause on the plate, then we try to adjust the sensor, slightly changing its height above the plate. After confidently working out the pauses and correct connection to the engine and solenoid, the device starts to work properly and further customization does not require.

Initially, I drove them with an amplifier from some old reel-to-reel tape recorder (I no longer remember the brand of the manufacturer or the model), then I switched to the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier, but soon it was not enough for me either. In 2004, after a long search on the Internet and in the relevant literature, I bought myself a Radiotehnika UP-001 preamplifier. Then I started looking for a good power amplifier. Unfortunately, in Ukraine, it is problematic to find something worthwhile, mainly amplifiers were offered, which were not even worth performing in a block design, since their sound did not deserve it. And then one day I was lucky to find two applicants at once, namely: Estonia um-010 (though I had to take it together with the Estonia up-010 preamplifier) ​​and Priboy 75-UM-204s.
Below are photos of these wonders of technology:

Initially, I leaned towards the Surf amplifier, for the reason that there are lamps. After studying the information on the sound of the tube, I abandoned this venture, due to the circumstances that the lamps do not last long, it is difficult to choose lamps with the same sound, the need for acoustics with high sensitivity, and to a large extent the sound depends on the quality of the output transformers, and , looking at their condition, I was horrified, since the winding was just disgusting.

Speaking in Russian, S-90 Surf is simply not able to stir up normally.

For this reason, I bought the Estonia kit. Let's proceed to a detailed examination of this kit.

Pre-amplifier Estonia UP-010

When I brought the device home, I wanted to listen to it in order to decide which Estonia UP-010 or Radiotehnika UP-001 is better. From the aesthetic point of view, the soul was more inclined towards the Estonian, since the width of the amplifier of Radiotehnika and Estonia is different, and the complex would look prettier. After connecting, it was immediately clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state, a monotonous whistling was heard in the high-frequency part of the spectrum - and this indicates that the electrolytes most likely dried up and high-frequency interference appeared. Having sent a signal to the input and connected the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier to the output (before that I turned on the Radiotehnika U-001 preamplifier through the Radiotehnika U-101, so for the purity of the experiment I repeated this circuit), I was deeply disappointed. The sound was unpleasant, a little dry and harsh, and the sound from Radiotehnika U-001 was just crystal clear, soft, delicate and transparent. It is clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state, for this reason it is too early to judge the quality, then I decided to look at its circuit (before that I was not interested in it since I already had a preliminary one, but I did not have a power amplifier and it was the circuit I was looking for power amplifiers for myself). Looking at the diagram, everything became clear, the creators actively used microcircuits in the sound path, and not the best quality. In general, when repairing the amplifier, it was possible to achieve a cultural sound from it, but it was not worth expecting a special quality, for this reason it was successfully resold. If someone is interested, then the diagram is shown below.

Power amplifier Estonia UM-010

Then it was time to listen to the power amplifier. Having connected it to the acoustics and pre-amplifier Radiotehnika U-001, listening began.

The sound of the amplifier was excellent, the sound was just fabulous. I really liked the detail in the entire audio range. I liked the fact that the sound was soft and unobtrusive, the middle in the sound range was just wonderfully worked out, the top was also on top, the cymbals sounded distinctly and cleanly case there is an amplifier and better, secondly, sound is a relative concept and very much depends on the ears of the listener, and I do not have specific equipment for taking characteristics).
Bass, specially highlighted as a separate link, since this part deserves detailed consideration. The bass amplifier was amazing because the designers made sure that the amplifier had adequate energy reserves to provide a powerful sound. Let's start with the fact that on board we have a powerful trance with a power of about 450 watts, which is more than enough for such an amplifier, capacities of 15000 microfarads per channel are also used, it should also be noted that the capacities are good, and most likely they will still survive the amplifier itself (I was a little surprised as in our country geniuses are invented, and, as always, alcoholics collect (meaning the Soviet Union)). In general, the amplifier is very successful, there are undoubtedly opinions that the current should be taken to the landfill, but personally I do not agree with this, and in the end it can always be improved and modified, thank God the field for action is quite extensive, you can start, for example, with the installation good capacitors, or, for example, sort out all the transistors and put in better ones (not necessarily import, we also knew something). It is also pleasing that there are no microcircuits in the sound path at all (they roughen up the sound a little, and the microcircuits of those times simply disfigure the sound). For those who are interested in the diagram, I give it below:

In conclusion, I would like to note that in our homeland they also knew how to make good audio products, although they often did it in some incomprehensible way (certainly not by hand), but nevertheless, with proper adjustment and appropriate refinement, our equipment easily plugs fancy imports into the belt, in which the lion's share of the cost of the device is taken for the firm.

• darova. tell me how to connect it all to me. I have the protection turned on on the power amplifier and is not cut off. help me please ...
• Write what speakers you connect to the amplifier, try to check by turning on the amplifier without speakers, since it has a speed protection (recommended 8 ohms)
• Hmm, preliminary pumped up, and so according to the description of the amplifier that should be. By the way, whose production is this? USSR?
• The preliminary one there is not so hot, but the relic is that it is nada (it is better at the edge of the corvettes and that is according to the opinion, I didn’t listen to myself) personally, I was based solely on my experience, so I can’t reliably say who is cooler. Our production, USSR: D. I don’t remember exactly, but in principle I can look at the nameplate of the amplifier's bottom.
• yes it seems
• Are you currently loading the Estonia UM - 010 amplifier on Radiotehnika S-90 speakers?
• Yes, then what?
• the protection does not turn off. we somehow got a fuck ... but this protection was turned off one column and it turned off and worked for 3 days on the third day I made it loud to listen. and then the protection does not turn off anymore ...
• Try to replace all the electrolytes related to protection, they dry out over time and the protection parameters go away. It will not help then only to pick it.
• Yes, what the amusers load than they hit, and then questions arise about - about the protection! .... First take away low frequencies on the equalizer .... And then check the PA, it won't start - is it at frequencies above 30 kHz ... If it's not difficult ... :(
• You have not confused anything? Personally, I have not complained about anything, everything works fine and there are no problems, read the posts carefully.
• Lan, thanks for the chat! I really wanted to help, but, apparently, we figured it out without "no snotty" .... :)))
• Thank you for communicating, in any case, it is useful to hear a different opinion, because this is the only way to really grasp the essence of the problem ... Personally, I would be grateful if you share some more information about this problem, or about other problems (we the forum is quite enough of them) ....;) :)
• You can elaborate on the essence of the problem. If the matter is in protection, and if you understood correctly the speech about Estonia-010, there the protection seems to cut off the 220v power supply, and not the speakers. In short, if it is in a 220v circuit, then we connect it directly so that there is power. If on the speakers - the speakers are not connected. And we check the presence of constant voltage at the outputs. If it is, then it can be: 1. open circuit (or fuse) + or - power supply. 2. breakdown of the output or pre-output transistor (determined by plugging the tester to the E-K, naturally with the mustache off). 3. Incorrectly adjusted gain. If the tester pointed to the transistors, then you need to stick nails instead of fuses, and turn ON the 40-60W LIGHT BULB in the 220v circuit break, if something is wrong, it will limit the short-circuit current. If everything is fine, it practically doesn’t hurt.
• about "corvettes": I personally listened (I can't name the brand for sure, if it's important, I can find out) with the speakers Radiotehnika S400, this is power! I haven't heard such a sound for a long time, but the cost of these speakers is very frightening!
• Power is not yet an indicator of quality, I had a chance to listen to home-made systems from a friend, with a power of 30 W the sound was quite powerful and natural (of everything I have ever listened to, this is the best, against that system, the scoop nervously smokes on the sidelines, but there the cost of the components is not commensurate with the cost of a scoop). In general, the sound for discos needs a powerful one, but for a house it is of high quality, especially if you consider that most of the time the amplifier produces a small power (for example, I have an ordinary power of about 2-5 W).
• I agree, but I used the word "power" not in the same sense, but in what you thought! I meant that it was a combination of quality, power and cost + a very good appearance (the standing of this device was at a fairly high level).
• Everything is relative....
• I completely agree, everything, especially when it comes to sound, is learned by comparison