Almost all motorists are familiar with such a problem as quick exit out of service LED lamps. Which are often placed in side lights, daytime running lights (DRLs) or other lights.
Typically, these LED lamps have low power and current consumption. What, in fact, determines their choice.
The LED itself can easily serve in optimal conditions for more than 50,000 hours, but in a car, especially a domestic one, it is sometimes not enough for a month. First, the LED begins to flicker, and then completely burns out.

What explains this?

The lamp manufacturer writes the marking “12V”. This is the optimal voltage at which the LEDs in the lamp operate almost at maximum. And if you supply 12 V to this lamp, it will last at maximum brightness for a very long time.
So why does it burn out in the car? Initially, the voltage of the car’s on-board network is 12.6 V. An overestimation of 12 is already visible. And the voltage of the network of a running car can reach up to 14.5 V. Let’s add to all this various jumps from switching powerful lamps high or low beam, powerful voltage pulses and magnetic interference when starting the engine from the starter. And we won’t get the best the best network for powering LEDs, which, unlike incandescent lamps, are very sensitive to all changes.
Since often in simple Chinese lamps there are no limiting elements except the resistor - the lamp fails due to overvoltage.
During my practice, I changed dozens of such lamps. Most of them did not serve even a year. Eventually I got tired and decided to look for an easier way out.

Simple voltage stabilizer for LEDs

To ensure comfortable operation for LEDs, I decided to make a simple stabilizer. Absolutely not difficult, any motorist can repeat it.
All we need:

• - a piece of PCB for the board,

Look like that's it. The entire package costs pennies on Ali Express - links in the list.

Stabilizer circuit

The circuit is taken from the datasheet for the L7805 chip.

It's simple - on the left is the entrance, on the right is the exit. Such a stabilizer can withstand up to 1.5 A load, provided that it is installed on a radiator. Naturally, for small light bulbs no radiator is needed.

Stabilizer assembly for LEDs

All you need to do is cut out the required piece from the PCB. There is no need to etch the tracks - I cut out simple lines with a regular screwdriver.
Solder all the elements and you're done. No setup required.

Thermal blower serves as the housing.
Another advantage of the circuit is that it is fashionable to use a car body as a radiator, since the central terminal of the microcircuit body is connected to the minus.

That's all, the LEDs no longer burn out. I’ve been driving for more than a year and forgot about this problem, which I advise you to do as well.

Almost every car owner has encountered such a problem as the frequent failure of LED lamps installed in side lights, daytime running lights and other car lights. You can solve the problem by making a voltage stabilizer for the DRL with your own hands, which does not require special skills and will not take much time.

LEDs in daytime running lights

LED lamps are highly popular among car enthusiasts due to their low power and low energy consumption. In addition, the optimal operating life of the LED can reach fifty thousand hours under proper conditions. However, in cars, especially domestically produced vehicles, the service life of the diode can be significantly reduced and after just a month it can begin to flicker and then burn out completely.

The optimal voltage for a long lamp life at the highest possible brightness is considered to be 12 V. However, the voltage of the vehicle’s on-board network initially exceeds 12 V, amounting to approximately 12.6 V, and when the engine is running it can reach as much as 14.5 V. Taking into account surges when switching powerful high and low beam lamps, as well as high voltage pulse power and magnetic interference when starting the engine with the starter, the on-board automotive network does not offer the best conditions for powering LED lamps.

LED lamps are highly sensitive to any voltage surges and, in the absence of limiting elements (cheap options do not have them, except for current-reducing resistors), they very quickly fail due to constant overvoltage.

DIY stabilizer

In order not to bother with replacing LEDs every time, spending extra money, you can go the other way - make a current stabilizer for the DRL with your own hands, especially since the task is feasible for almost every motorist.

To assemble such a stabilizer, you will need the following components:

• microcircuit - linear voltage stabilizer (this can be L7805 or KR142EN8B);
• two capacitors (100 microfarads and 330 microfarads);
• blowtorch.

Self-production of a stabilizer for DRLs occurs in several stages:

1. It is necessary to connect a capacitor with a capacity of 100 microfarads and a stabilizer according to the diagram: minus with the central leg of the stabilizer, plus with the right.
2. The second capacitor (330 μF) is soldered according to the mirror principle: positive to the central leg of the stabilizer, negative to the left leg.
3. Then the input plus must be soldered to the diode, and the minus must be soldered to the middle leg of the stabilizer.

So, stabilizer for daytime running lights almost ready, all that remains is to take into account some points:

• To prevent the stabilizer from heating up, you need to screw any metal plate to it, which will act as a cooling radiator. There is also the option of attaching stabilizers directly to the car body - in this case, it will serve as a radiator;
• When running lights consume more than 700 mA, each individual light requires the manufacture of its own stabilizer.

The connection diagram for the stabilizer for the DRL is as simple as the diagram for its manufacture and can be easily found on any website or forum of car enthusiasts.

A similar 12-volt stabilizer, made by yourself, is suitable not only for daytime running lights, but also for some other automotive electronics that require stabilization. You can also buy ready-made LED drivers, but they are often more expensive than the LED lamps themselves.

Many car enthusiasts have already heard about the benefits of DRLs and are starting to look for a decent model in stores. The assortment is widely represented by Chinese junk costing from 300 to 5000 rubles. Some don’t even understand why they should be installed on a car and buy junk for 500 rubles, which shines a little brighter than its dimensions, with a power of 2 watts. You've probably seen these, they still glow blue, and some of the LEDs don't light up or blink. Then they have the problem of how to wire up the running lights to make them last longer. Garage craftsmen offer various DRL connection schemes, the most difficult thing is to choose the right one.

Common names that will be used in the text: DRL “Daytime Running Lights”, daytime running lights.

• 1. Types of connection
• 2. Operating mode
• 3. How to connect DRL with control unit
• 4. DRL controller
• 5. Select a stabilizer
• 6. Connection via relay
• 7. Other less popular methods
• 8. Installation check
• 9. Example of benefit

Types of connection

DRL Eagle eye, eagle eye

The connection diagram for running lights depends on the configuration and your budget. There are 3 types of configuration:

1. the most inexpensive, only DRL;
2. average in price, stabilizer included;
3. expensive, with a control controller.

If you have the cheapest and worst ones, then the kit does not include a controller or control unit. Such a unit performs the function of a voltage stabilizer and on/off control.

IN mid-spec There is a voltage stabilizer for 12V. There are voltage surges in the car network, and LEDs really don’t like this and fail. The stabilizer will significantly extend the life of the LEDs. But in this option, you will have to choose a place for connection so that they turn on only when the engine is running. There are many places for this, for example an oil pressure sensor or a generator.

Domestic model

The expensive version is equipped with a control unit that connects directly to battery in the car. According to the principle of operation, they are of two types:

• determine the difference between the number of volts when the engine is off and on;
• cheaper, it turns on when the voltage rises above 13V.

The first option is the best, regardless of the voltage on your battery, always turn it on and off correctly. The second option is budgetary and does not always work. With the engine off, the number of volts must drop below 13V for the controller to turn off the DRL. However, if your battery is new or well charged, then even after stopping the engine, it will have a voltage above 13V for up to several hours. That is, the daytime running lights will not turn off on their own until there is less than 13V. The only drawback will be its own power consumption when the controller is waiting for the engine to start. It will drain the battery along with the security alarm.

Operating mode

According to technical regulations for cars, DRL should automatically turn on when the engine starts. When you turn on the low beams, they should turn off automatically so as not to dazzle at night.

There are also combined models with installed turn signals on sale. The turn signal duplication section is connected separately in parallel to the standard turn signals. Having a stable diet is also a must.

DRL with turn signal

For models with additional control There is a follow-up backlight function that works for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off. It illuminates your path to your home or dugout, depending on where you live. Osram DRL has a mode in which they do not turn off, but dim by 50%. I just don’t know how legal it is and whether it will cause blindness.

How to connect DRL with control unit

DRL controller

..

I prefer the DRL connection scheme using the control unit, the most reliable way, suitable for any car and does not require any knowledge. Many car enthusiasts buy a DRL control unit from AliExpress - it is inexpensive, and the reviews seem to be good. However, most reviews are left either upon receipt of the product or after several days of use. In fact, absolutely all DRL controllers from AliExpress are short-lived and have the following disadvantages:

1. the operating principle does not comply with GOST;
2. there is no stabilization (for the majority);
3. low quality materials and assembly;
4. the features of the vehicle’s on-board network are not taken into account;
5. no guarantee;
6. some do not have moisture protection.

From quality options I can highlight the DayLight+ DRL control unit from Russian manufacturer, which fully complies with GOST and is of good quality. The DayLight+ controller also has built-in stabilization, which will significantly increase the life of the running lights.

Choosing a stabilizer

In this form, the first and second methods will be combined. Even if your daytime running lights do not have a stabilizer, I recommend purchasing one or making it yourself.

You can buy Chinese modules at prices ranging from 50 to 120 rubles, so as not to order on Aliexpress, take a look at Avito, they are very acceptable prices. The most common modules are pulse LM2596 and linear LM317. They are of course outdated, but they will draw a current of 1 ampere, which will be a power of 12 watts.

The XL6009, XL4015 chips are considered modern for 2016. They have higher efficiency and heat up much less. They can withstand a current of 2 Amps without a chip cooling system, this is equivalent to a load of 24 watts.

Connection via relay

On forums and websites you will find different ways How to connect daytime running lights with your own hands, it will be different for each brand. Specialized relays are also sold, for example Forget-me-not, designed for any car.

The operating principle is simple. Power to the daytime running lights is supplied from the ignition switch wire. The positive wire from the far and near breaks the circuit when voltage appears on it. A 5-pin relay is sufficient for this. First, look for a solution on forums that specialize only in the make of your car. Perhaps you will find a simpler solution.

For example, in Duster you can connect the DRL to the cigarette lighter; voltage is supplied to it only when the ignition is turned on. This is better than looking for the ignition wire in the wiring. In any case, I recommend installing a fuse in case of a short circuit.

Many circuits use a gauge wire to disable the DRL. This is incorrect DRL should not go out when the headlights are turned on, only when low beam is on.

Another type of connection diagram for daytime running lights is the installation of a relay in the standard relay block of a car without any upgrades. It includes 30% or 50% distant, which will be enough to identify vehicles on the road. If the distant one consumes 120W, then 30% equals approximately 36W, 50% equals 60W.

Other less popular methods

Many people are interested in how to connect DRLs without a relay on their own, but it depends on the electrical system of your car; look for a solution in online clubs dedicated to your car. The most important thing is that power is supplied to this place after the engine starts.

The basic diagram for connecting the DRLs is through a 4 or 5 contact relay, which turns off when the low one is turned on. Those who are not too lazy to rummage through the car’s wiring can connect it from the oil pressure sensor or generator. On any vehicle, when you start the engine, the oil pressure light on dashboard, the signal from this wire is used to supply power. The second way to connect running lights yourself is to connect to a generator. They will turn on automatically when voltage appears on the generator.

Verifying the installation

Most car owners, after connecting the running lights with their own hands, like to take a photo of their junk. To make it less dim, they do this at night from close range. Due to their illiteracy, they do not know that they need to check in sunny weather from a distance of 100 meters. That's why they are called daytime and not nighttime.

Example of benefit

When traveling short distances in winter, especially in severe frost, a large amount of battery energy is spent on starting the engine. Over time, the battery loses its capacity and holds its charge worse. Using DRLs instead of low beams will allow you to charge the battery faster while driving.

Let's do the math:

1. low beam consumes about 100W, 2 lamps approximately 50W each;
2. decent DRLs up to 15W;
3. 100W – 15W = 85W less energy will be consumed.

For example, in my Duster there is a standard heating element that heats the interior until the engine warms up. Accordingly, the car will warm up faster.

If you are a careful driver and are concerned about the condition of your car, the durability of LED running lights, lamps, strips and other light sources, then you simply need this voltage stabilizer!

What is the use of it you ask?

• Possibility of adjusting the output voltage in the range from 1.3 to 30 Volts;
• Eliminates short voltage surges;
• Extends the service life of LEDs several times;
• Possibility of installing equipment designed to operate on a 12 Volt network on trucks;
• Saves your money and time.

Every driver knows that the voltage in a car's network ranges from 12.2 to 14.4 Volts. This has a detrimental effect on the operation of LEDs, which require a constant voltage value. An adjustable stabilizer is widely used in lighting tuning using tapes or slats, because they are defenseless against power surges.

Peculiarities:

• Power supply from 12 or 24 Volts;
• Reliable board and modern chip;
• Convenient output voltage regulator;
• One of the most compact in its class;
• Works only to reduce voltage;
• Affordable price.

Characteristics:

• Model: LM2596
• Current - constant
• Input voltage: 3-40 Volts
• Maximum current: 3 Amps
• Conversion efficiency: 93%
• Output Ripple:< 30мВ
• Switching frequency: 65 kHz
• Operating temperature: -45 to + 85
• Size: 43 x 21 x 14 mm
• Warranty: 6 months

Equipment:

• 1 x Adjustable Voltage Stabilizer

Connection:

2 contacts labeled IN+ and IN- are connected to the power source by soldering the positive and negative wires, respectively. A consumer (DRL, strip, LED module, etc.) is connected to two contacts on the opposite edge - the positive wire is to the OUT+ mark, the negative wire is to the OUT- mark. To calibrate the stabilizer, place a multimeter at the output and set the desired value by rotating the adjusting screw.

By purchasing a stabilizer for diode lamps, you will be confident in the durability of your lighting!

If you only need 12 volts at the output, then you can buy a 12 Volt voltage stabilizer for LEDs in cars

It’s very easy to purchase an adjustable voltage stabilizer 12/24V 3A in the Electro-kot online store - just click on the add to cart button, fill out the required fields and select convenient way delivery.