How often did it happen that one ear stops working on an earphone? Repairing headphones requires minimal skill, but at the same time it can greatly extend the life of your favorite headphones. In the laboratory, we compiled detailed manual repair for you.

My headphones don't last longer than a month, so I buy cheap ones. - They work for you no more than a month because you buy cheap headphones.

Headphones in 90% of cases fail due to a break in the conductors in the wire. Depending on the quality of the wire, its design, the service life before this misfortune turns out to be different. If the Chinese used just two insulated copper wires as conductors, then this will happen in less than a month. If the conductors are wound on a synthetic cord, then the wire can work for years. Breakage occurs due to metal fatigue at small bending radii. If you take a paper clip and disperse it, bend it in one place several times - it breaks, the same happens with the copper conductors of the wire. To combat this, they are trying to increase the bending radius of the wire - the plastic spring at the connectors is made just for this.

Here is an example of a broken conductor in a wire, the conductors are removed from the insulation:

Or here. Greens - sebum penetrated through the insulation and oxidized copper:

Repair begins with finding the location of the malfunction. If one of the headphones does not work for us, then there is an open circuit in the vein of the left or right channel. If there is a break in the common vein, then only music is heard in the headphones, and the vocals are practically inaudible, the difference signal between the left and right channels begins to play in the headphones.

To diagnose a break in conductors in a wire, use this technique - fix the connector and make circular movements with the wire during operation. If you hear rustles, crackles or interruptions in work, then the place of malfunction is in this place. From experience, it is most often just at the socket of the earphone droplets, but for headphones with a 50/50 rim, there is a break at the connector or at the earpiece.

The place of the cliff is shown with a red arrow. When the break point is established, we proceed with the repair. You can, of course, replace the connector and install a collapsible plug, but unfortunately the collapsible plugs are quite large and their quality is often useless (in Yekaterinburg we could not buy plugs of acceptable quality. Even all-metal plugs with a gilded case suffered from misalignment of contact cylinders, weak contact of cylinders with lamellas) Therefore, disassembly a non-separable connector and the use of its components seems appropriate.

Fortunately for us, in the vast majority of cases for headphones, the plug consists of two parts, a plastic seal for the connector and a rubber cap. Remove the cap:

We cut through the plastic fill of the contact part:

We clean the wire. It is desirable with a heated object, so as not to leave scratches on the veins, which will provoke a break. Do not forget to leave the cap on the wire:

This is where subtlety is buried. The conductors are covered with polyimide insulation, which does not melt from the soldering iron tip. Cleaning with a sharp object is a filigree work, moreover, with a high risk of missing at the end of the conductors. In this case, they do it in two ways. You can burn the insulation with a lighter, then strip off the burn and tin. Minus this method the fact that the veins are oxidized from combustion and it becomes difficult to tin them. The second method is more elegant - the insulation is chemically burned.

We take an aspirin tablet (acetylsalicylic acid) and use a heated soldering iron tip (350+ degrees Celsius) to press the insulated conductor to the tablet, pulling it out. The acid breaks down the insulation and works like a flux. DO NOT INHALATE THE VAPORS! WORK UNDER HOOD!

Result:

We clean off the remnants of aspirin from the veins (it is advisable to thoroughly wash and dry it, aspirin is an active flux and will continue to destroy the material if it is not removed), bite off the excess and solder it back to the connector:

We turn on the player and check that everything works. After that, the plug must be fixed in the cap. To do this, we use a quickly hardening epoxy adhesive:

We recommend poxipol because of its consistency. Epoxy glue "moment" also hardens in 10 minutes, and it is also suitable, but it is more difficult for them to work as it is more fluid. We mix the glue and fill the cavity of the cap with it, placing the plug there. Thus, we imitate the plastic fill that we bit through at the beginning. It locks the conductors to protect the gentle soldering point.

When the glue sets, but has not yet hardened to the state of a stone, we cut off everything unnecessary with a knife:

The repair is complete! You can use it.

Sometimes it happens that a broken wire in the wire directly at the earphone, or the repair according to the instructions above did not help. In this case, read on.

Headphones are considered not collapsible, as they are assembled with glue. Fortunately, many plastic glued cases can be disassembled due to the fact that the glue seam is not easily deformed.

We clamp the headphones into a clamp or vise, the screw allows you to strictly dose the force, smoothly increasing it:

At some point, the part will unstick and open like a shell:

We open the earpiece and get access to its contents. With the help of a multimeter, we ring the headphone winding in order to exclude an open circuit:

A break in the winding and damage to the membrane are few things that cannot be repaired. If the winding is intact, then we cut the cord and tuck it into the earpiece again. Most often, the wire is fixed with a knot, strip and tin the conductors in the same way as for soldering the plug.

You can glue the earphone back with any glue, after degreasing the surface. Apply the glue carefully so that excess glue or its vapor does not damage the membrane.

Based on experience, after such a repair, the headphones work until the next breakdown about the same as they did after purchase. Considering the cost of high-quality headphones, repair of such a plan is advisable.

Wireless headphones (headset or earphones) belong to accessories in the category household appliances, for the repair of which they are reluctant to undertake service centres, despite the fact that the price for some models is rather big. Their owners can bring faulty headphones back to life. This will require a little patience, the ability to hold a screwdriver and a soldering iron in your hands, and the presence of the simplest tester in the household is only welcome.

In the article -, we have disassembled the mini speaker system, reviewed its design and eliminated the malfunction. Here and now we will perform with you repair of wireless Bluetooth headphone Nokia BH-905.

As an example, consider the most common malfunctions for elimination, which do not require deep theoretical knowledge in the field of radio electronics:

• the battery in the headphones is not charging
• the battery is charging, but the time autonomous work clearly less than stated in the instructions
• right or left earphone does not work.

Most of the models of headphones outside the case do not have any visible screws and screws, and many owners who decide to repair accessories on their own have a question - how the headphones are disassembled.

In order to find the hidden screws in the Nokia BH-905 headphones, we need to peel off the leather ear cushions. It should be noted here that this is where most headphone manufacturers hide the screws.

After unscrewing the screws, we are convinced that such disassembly is clearly not enough for access to the "internals", but a step is necessary to replace the speaker. To access the battery and the wireless headphone board, you need to go from the other side ...

First, remove the glued decorative cover with the Nokia logo, carefully pry on and remove the decorative bezel.

There are four more screws hiding here that need to be unscrewed.

Our gaze opens the board, the battery, and a malfunction immediately catches our eyes - a torn off or poorly soldered wire from the battery. The headphones are used without a case battery - the battery cell is in a polyethylene-type bag. The package is hermetically sealed. If appearance Since the battery resembles an inflated ball, this indicates that a chemical reaction is taking place inside the battery with the release of gases. Bloating is the first sign of battery degradation.

The capacity of such batteries is less than the serviceable ones, therefore, the defective batteries are charged and discharged much faster than the serviceable ones. To replace faulty battery it is necessary to choose a battery that is suitable in size and characteristics. Wireless headphones use accumulator battery 3.7 Volts, 280mAh.

The battery life of the Nokia BH-905 Bluetooth headphones with a working battery is quite long: 24 hours of talk time via Bluetooth, about 25 hours as Bluetooth headphones. Turning on the squelch reduces the operating time by about a third - 15 and 16 hours, respectively. With a wired connection and the squelch turned on, you can listen to music for almost 40 hours without interruption.

Below are the typical malfunctions headphones. 99% of the time, one of the options is yours.

Internal breakage in the cord

Manifestations: the sound begins to rustle in one of the headphones (less often in both), eventually disappears completely.

Diagnostics: The break occurs at the place where the cord is bent, i.e. either directly at the connector, or at the wire entry into the headphone itself. The exact location can be set if you turn on playback and rotate the cord. A crackling sound or sound indicates the exact location of the break.

Repair: Cut the cord below the break and re-solder it.

Option with a break at the connector

Plugs usually come in two flavors - one-piece flexible plastic, a molded rigid core, and a soft rubber cap. It is necessary to remove the rubber cap, if this is not possible, cut it with a knife.

Bite through the casting with pliers, and get to the soldering point of the wire to the metal contacts of the connector. Strip and solder the wire, and put everything back together.

Fill cavities due to removed plastic parts with epoxy glue, better fast curing.

The cut elastic can be reinforced with a synthetic thread bondage. Shrink tubing can also work well.

Option with a break at the earphone

It is necessary to disassemble the earphone. Large headphones are assembled with screws. Smaller earphones - with snaps. Droplet earbuds, earbuds - adhesive bonded. The glue joint is disassembled either with a knife or by squeezing the headphones in the yew - due to elastic bending, the crack usually goes along the glued joint.

The wire inside the earphone is tied in a knot to prevent it from being pulled out. Cut the wire, strip it, tie it in a knot and solder it as it was. Glue the earphone back.

Clogged channel

This malfunction is possible only with sealed acoustic earbuds. The membrane is separated from the channel by a thin metal mesh. Earwax, as the earphone is used, covers this mesh and interferes with the passage of acoustic waves.

Diagnostics: the absence of sound despite the fact that the continuity shows the integrity of the headphone windings.

Repair: disassemble the earpiece and rinse the mesh in alcohol. Disassembly is preferable so as not to stain the membrane with numb alcohol with dirt particles.

Diaphragm damage

Manifestations: crackling, rattling in one of the headphones, the difference in playback timbre.

Diagnostics: visual inspection and opening of the earpiece.

Repair: after opening, straighten the membrane if it is crumpled. The effect will be temporary and the headphones will need to be replaced. If there are foreign particles on the membrane, remove. Rinse the mesh separating the membrane from the surrounding area.

Why is this happening?

Let's look at the photo of the place where the cliff lived:

With a small bending radius, the conductors accumulate a large fatigue load and break. If you take a paper clip, straighten it and bend it in the middle, then in one direction, then in the other, then after a few such bends it will break. The same thing happens with the wires in the wire.

Fight this in two ways. At first, it is a special wire with a special weaving of veins. The central channel made of synthetic filaments provides the wire with tensile strength, and the cores wound in a spiral, when the wire is bent, experience more torsional stress than bending. The core is more stable under torsional load. The second way is to increase the bend radius. To do this, the connector or earpiece ends with an openwork flexible plastic construction, which bends along with the wire and increases the bending radius. But correctly selected rigidity of the plastic is strictly necessary; with a rhyme of hard or too soft plastic, there will be no sense from the structure.

More information: Basic information about soldering can be obtained from

Half a year ago I bought my daughter wireless Meizu headphones Pop. They were about three times more expensive than the most budget models of similar bluetooth headsets, although their characteristics did not differ. But I was bribed by their design and compactness, for a girl such a gift seemed to me the most suitable.

Headphones at a glance

Meizu Pop wireless headphones, in my opinion, will be a good gift, both to yourself and to someone else. But, as it turned out, this model comes across a lot of defects, I just came across a defective model, which I will discuss below. There was also a lot on Yandex layout negative reviews, both in sound and signal quality, and in marriage.

At the time of purchase, the headset cost, on average, from 6,000 to 9,000 rubles. I bought my model for 8000 rubles, because there was no time to look for a price cheaper, time was running out to choose a gift. Now their cost is, on average, 5,000 rubles.

The daughter really liked the gift and she immediately began to wear them. According to her, they fit well in the ear and do not fall out, although she put them on without using the additional ear spacers that come with the headphones.

There are almost no complaints about the sound and quality of the Bluetooth connection. Sometimes, according to my daughter, the signal can be interrupted, but this happens rarely and does not cause much discomfort. The sound quality is at a good level, I did not hear much difference compared to my wireless headphones Awai and a regular wired headset.

The runtime is approximately 4 hours, despite the fact that the manufacturer claims 3 hours of continuous work. To recharge, they need to be placed on their seats in the charging station, which has its own battery.

To charge the docking station itself, there is a port on its underside. USB Type-C... There is also the possibility of wireless. One charging station is enough for about 4 full charges of both headphones without recharging it from the mains.

Table with main characteristics.

Type of	Bluetooth headset with microphone (earplugs).
Bluetooth version	4.2.
Frequency range	20 - 20,000 Hz.
The weight	Headset - 11.6 g, case - 48 g.
Battery capacity	85 mAh battery, enough for 3 hours of continuous operation.
Case battery capacity	700 mAh battery, enough for 12 hours of operation, i.e. 4 full charges.
Voice dialing	There is.
Answer / end conversation	There is.
Volume control	There is.
Water resistant	There is.
Wireless charger	There is.

Headphone repair

At first everything was fine, the headset performed its duties perfectly, without any complaints. But after three months, when the warranty expired, the right earpiece stopped working. At first, he came back to life again if he was shaken, but then he broke down completely. Two months later, the magnetic fastening of the right earpiece weakened, and after another month it completely broke.

The headphones did not work at all, i.e. did not blink the indicator if you put them in the docking station and were not detected by the phone. I believe I came across a defective model or a fake. The warranty period of three months has already passed, there was nothing to lose, and I decided to disassemble them before taking them to the trash.

How to disassemble Meizu Pop headphones

On the Internet, I found how many video instructions for disassembling Meizu Pop with your own hands. In general, the process was not complicated, as always, everything was collected on latches, which I do not like so much. I like it more when manufacturers make it possible to disassemble the gadget by unscrewing a couple of screws without fasteners with latches.

My electronics repair kit is modest. I do not do this professionally. It does not contain special scalpels, thin plates and other tools for disassembling small equipment. But at hand there were several suitable gizmos that allowed me to open both the charging station itself and both headphones.

In order to disassemble the charging station, you need to pry its upper part with something very thin and flat. You need to pry it off carefully, snapping off the latches around the entire perimeter. As always, with such an opening, the case at the joints is easily damaged and loses its presentation, but this was not critical for me.

Inside the case there was a main board with a charging controller, two batteries, a coil wireless charging, board with USB port Type-C. On the top cover, 4 rectangular magnets are attached to hold the headphones, 2 for each. There are also 2 round magnets, one for each, performing the function of magnetic limit switches, thanks to which the earphone turns off when charging.

It turned out to be not so difficult to disassemble the headphones themselves, I gently tapped them in a circle with pliers, putting them on a handkerchief, and then went along the seam with a clerical knife. The cap came off easily, but upon opening I broke a couple of plastic pins, which you can also close your eyes to.

Inside there was a signal receiving and control board with a microphone and microcircuits. A cable with contacts for charging, speaker and battery goes to the board from the case.

Repair of the magnetic mount of the station

On my headset, one rectangular holding magnet on the docking station lid fell off. Therefore, the earphone was weakly magnetized to its seat.

This problem was the easiest to solve, since it was enough to glue the magnet in place. But I decided to fix not only the fallen off, but other magnets as well. As it turned out, they also held on to snot, it even seemed to me that they were not glued at all.

I checked which side of the magnets were magnetised to the earpiece and in turn glued them back into place. To do this, I used a thin strip of hot melt glue cut from a three-glue stick with a clerical knife. I cut the strip into squares, put the squares in the grooves for the magnets. Then he heated the magnets with a soldering iron, pressing them with a copper wire to their seats.

I made a mistake in the process. I pressed hard on one of the magnets, which caused a bump on the outside of the mount. I had to grind it down with an engraver. The appearance suffered a little, but it no longer played any role.

Then I checked how the headphones were holding in place, then I assembled the docking station and proceeded to repair the left earphone.

Left earphone repair

When disassembling the left earpiece and examining the board under a magnifying glass, I accidentally pressed on the battery contacts, which caused the power indicator to light up. So I realized that the problem is precisely in these contacts.

It turned out that the battery was not fixed in the case and only rests on its power contacts going to the board tracks. This led to a breakdown, tk. when shaking, the track, to which the battery power contact is soldered, simply came off the PCB.

Then he bent the contact, with a soldering iron removed the tin and a piece of the detached track. When examining the place from where it came off, it turned out that this track was connected by a through channel to a track on the other side of the board. When the needle closes the battery leg with this contact, the earphone turned on.

On a good level, it was necessary to remove the board by unsoldering all the contacts from it and soldering a new jumper to the track on the back of the board. But I decided not to waste time and flattened the copper wire, tinned it and soldered it to the through contact that remained from the torn off track.

Then I checked whether the left earphone is charging, whether the indicator turns on when it is inserted into the docking station, and whether the search for a device starts with a corresponding light indication. Everything was fine and I put it together by gluing the cap with super glue in three places. Additionally, I fixed the battery with hot melt glue so that it does not dangle.

During the renovation, I found a video with the same problem. But the author had two breakdowns at once, and for repair he completely disassembled the headset, unsoldering the contacts. Before starting the repair, I highly recommend watching this video.

Repairing the right earphone

The problem with the right earbuds was similar to that of the left. Also, a track with a soldered battery contact came off the PCB, but on the other side of the board. This time, I immediately checked exactly the tracks. One of them staggered, but when pressed, the headset showed no signs of life.

During the repair, I proceeded in the same way as with the left earphone. I bent and cleaned the battery contact and started looking for the desired contact track on the board, to which you can solder to restore contact.

In this case, it was necessary to solder to a small piece of the remaining track, which went under the clamp for the cable. If it had come off a little further, then I would not have been able to find and restore it. I cleaned and tinned the remaining piece of the track and soldered the flattened copper wire to it, connecting it to the battery leg.

But when checking it, it turned out that the headset did not always work, but somehow halfway. When you put it on charging, it blinked with an indicator, and when removed from the docking station, it stopped showing signs of life.

It turned out that the torn-off track also had another contact that went right through to the other side of the board. I did the same as I did with the left earphone. I did not unsolder the contacts and remove the board, but soldered to this point, which went to the other side.

Now the earphone worked completely, both alone and paired with the left one. Additionally, I fixed the battery with hot melt glue and assembled its case, dropping superglue in three places to glue the lid.

At the same time, as in the first case, here I also found a video with the same problem and with the right earpiece. True, its author's track did not come off the PCB, the contact was simply badly soldered and fell off. Before starting the repair, I highly recommend watching this video.

Summarizing the results

At the beginning of the renovation, I didn’t think I couldn’t fix the headset with my own hands. But it turned out that this is quite possible with a little experience in electronics repair, only with the initial soldering skills. The daughter was glad that she could listen to music wirelessly again, and I got an additional skill self repair and a small plus sign in karma.

It is significant that neither the left nor the right earphones work. That is, the same factory defect is present both there and there. Over time, this leads to a guaranteed failure of the device, because shaking during operation will be present in any case.

Manufacturer wireless headset Meizu Pop didn't bother to fix the battery in the case, which is why almost all breakdowns in this model occur. A dangling battery over time simply tears off the tracks with contacts from the PCB. It was also possible to make the battery contacts flexible to compensate for vibration.

They also saved on the fastening of the retaining magnets in the docking station case. They were poorly glued in their seats. Here, too, were required minimum costs to avoid this problem in principle.

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How to disassemble headphones: instructions with a step-by-step photo of repairing all elements of the headset

Headphones consist of a wire, a plug, and two speakers. Additionally, the headset is equipped with a microphone and volume control. Any of these elements fail over time. Before making repairs, you need to figure out how to disassemble the headphones so as not to break them completely.

Reveal the malfunction of the plug by crushing the incoming wire with your fingers. The headphones are connected to a mobile phone or computer, play a music file, and then proceed to diagnostics.

Typically, copper conductors break at the entrance to the rubber or plastic housing of the plug and inside it. If at times a sound appears in the speakers while the cable is being repaired, then the plug must be disassembled and repaired.

Recommendations: How to fix headphones yourself if one has stopped working
, The earphone does not work: breakdown diagnostics, repair methods
Do-it-yourself headphone repair

The plug restoration procedure consists of the following steps:

The plug is bite off with pliers from the headphone cable.

The purpose of the repair is to remove the metal part from the casing. The element is firmly soldered. Trying to keep the old casing is unwise. It is easier to cut along it with a sharp knife.

The metal part of the plug is carefully removed from the casing so that the contacts do not break off. The soldered wires should be kept as well. The color of the insulation makes it clearer where to solder the cores of the headphone cable.

In the event of a wire breakage from the contacts on the soldering itself, the standard circuit shown in the photo is used for connection. The color of the insulation in the headset cable differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most often, the common core is in black or yellow insulation. To be sure, it is better to ring the tester from the speakers to the place where the cable is cut.

Headphones can be equipped with a microphone. In such models, instead of three, four cores are hidden under the cable braid. The connection takes place according to a different scheme shown in the photo.

The cable cut from the plug is stripped. First, remove the main sheath and release the ends of the veins. The edges of the thin wires are cleaned with a sharp knife. It is enough to remove 5 mm of insulation length so that it is enough to solder the copper core to the contact of the plug.

The wires are twisted from thin veins, and all of them are covered with a protective varnish. This sputtering prevents soldering. The varnish is removed by scraping with a knife or burned with a fire from a lighter. The ends of pure copper veins must be tinned. The common wire will be connected on one contact, so it is immediately soldered together.

The new plug cover is made from the bottom cap of a ballpoint pen. The wire is inserted through the pen opening. The put-on cap is moved along the cable further from the soldering point.

After the cap, a piece of heat shrink tubing is put on the wire. The sleeve protects the wire from breaking near the new plug cover.

The conductors of the cable are soldered to the contacts of the plug. It is important not to forget that the wires match the color of the insulation. The performance is checked by calling the tester. Easier to plug the plug into the socket mobile phone or a computer.

If both earbuds are working properly, a heat-shrink tubing is placed over the pins of the plug. It is heated by a lighter fire. The tube will fit snugly around the pins of the plug. For reliability, you can squeeze with your fingers while the plastic is hot.

Finally, the inside of the cap is greased with epoxy. A little glue is applied to the heat shrink tubing. The cap is slid along the cable until rear part the plug will not fully fit into the stopper. After a day, the resin will harden and the headphones can be used.

The wire can break not only at the plug, but also near the speaker. To get to this part in vacuum headphones, do the following:

A seam is found on the body of the earphone. They are trying to make an incision on it with a sharp knife. The body is lightly pressed with pliers so that the seam comes apart.

When the case falls apart into two parts, the rear of the speaker with contacts will appear on the survey. The damaged cores are soldered off with a soldering iron, but first they mark the color of the insulation with a marker so as not to confuse the wires.

A damaged piece is cut off from the general cable of the headset. The conductors of a working wire are stripped, after which they are soldered to the speaker contacts, observing the marks of the insulation color.

The operation of the vacuum headset is checked by connecting it to a telephone or computer jack. If the speaker is not intermittent high quality sound, the halves of the earphone body are glued together.

The speakers in the large earbuds are hidden inside the case, the disassembly of which is complicated by hidden screws and latches. If all the fasteners are not identified, the plastic elements of the headset will simply break from the applied efforts of the hands. The methods for disassembling headphones from different manufacturers differ. For example, consider several popular models:

Disassemble the Sennheiser HD203 headset by removing the ear pads. Soft pads are held by snaps, which are easily detached with a plastic card.

There are four screws under the soft pads. They are unscrewed with a screwdriver.

The halves of the case are not glued together. After unscrewing the screws, the elements will easily separate into two parts. The speakers are fixed on the front panel, to the contacts of which you have to solder a new wire.

Headset manufacturer Steelseries Siberia glues soft pads. The ear pads are separated from the body with a screwdriver or knife. Fastening the body halves in different models used with screws or latches. In the second option, disassembly is not complete without breaking the locks. The assembly of the case with broken latches is carried out with glue. In the future, it will not be possible to disassemble a firmly glued earpiece.

Things are simpler with the soft pads in the Razer Kraken headphones. The ear cushions are simply put on without being fixed with glue or snaps. After removing the overlays, a paper sticker enters the view. Four screws are hidden under it.

For Philips and Audio-Technica headphones, the ear cushions are similarly not secured with anything. The overlays are simply put on the rim of the cup.

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Headphones for a computer are produced with a volume control and a microphone. The headset of the mobile phone is equipped with a button to turn on and off the conversation. All of these elements are hidden in a small plastic case attached to a cord. To get to these elements, you will have to perform similar actions that are used when disassembling vacuum headphones. The body is glued together, and you can only divide it into two halves by cutting with a knife.

A malfunction of the volume control is determined by crackling in the speakers and poor sound. The problem lies in the variable resistor. The part consists of a slider moving along the resistive layer. You can extend the life of the resistor with graphite grease. Using a cotton swab, the paste is applied to the resistive layer.

The problem of the microphone is revealed by the deterioration in audibility experienced by the subscriber with whom the conversation is being conducted. The cause is often a blockage. The microphone is wiped with cotton wool or gauze soaked in alcohol. After repairing the resistor and microphone, the two halves of the case are glued together.

Disassembling headphones of any brand is easy. The main thing is to be careful. Broken plastic parts cannot be recovered.

Featured materials: If water gets on the headphones or inside the mobile phone jack
How to properly set up a headphone microphone on a Windows computer
How to properly warm up the headphones and whether it is necessary to do it
How to solder the headphone plug
How to Reconnect Broken Headphone Cords
How to Improve Headphone Sound Quality
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DIY simple earphone and headset with microphone

a source

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to disassemble different types headphones using the example of the most popular brands. We looked at how to repair headphones in this article.

• Full-size on-ear headphones such as Wireless Beats, Wired Beats and Wired Sony
• How to disassemble vacuum headphones using Phillips as an example;
• How to disassemble earbuds (Apple EarPods)

• How to disassemble the headphone plug?
• How to disassemble headphones with microphone?
• How to disassemble bluetooth headphones?
• How to disassemble the earpiece speaker?
• How to disassemble Sven headphones?
• How to disassemble Sennheiser headphones?

Plantronics GameCom 388 - Disassembled Ear Cushion

Generalized instructions for disassembling any model of headphones looks like this:

1. Removing the ear pads.
2. Unscrew the screws on the headphone case.
3. We carefully take out the speaker.
4. If you need to replace the speaker, then carefully solder the wires coming from the speaker.
5. Unscrew the remaining screws on the headband and headphone case, if there is a need for complete disassembly, for example, when replacing individual parts of the earphone or headband.

(Basically, the ear cushions are removed quite easily and are held on small latches, but in some models of headphones, for example, Beats, they can be additionally glued. In this case, you will first need to carefully peel them off with a thin scalpel or knife, if they do not come off by themselves when trying There may also be headphone models in which the ear pads are additionally screwed with one or two screws to the headphone case, for example, in some Sony models.)

On-ear (full-size) headphones are the easiest to disassemble. For this we need :

1. Phillips screwdriver (according to the size of the screws on the headphones);
2. A thin knife or scalpel (you will need it to carefully peel off the ear pads planted on the glue, as well as for other trifles);
3. Soldering iron;

Now let's take a closer look at the process of disassembling headphones on some models of two popular brands - Beats and Sony.

An analysis of two of the most famous over-ear headphones from Beats - Solo and Studio. The models differ slightly from each other, so the analysis will also be slightly different.

Remove the cover from the battery compartment. It is located on the left side of the earpiece. To do this, carefully turn it counterclockwise. You also need to remove the pads. It's easy to do - click on them from the side and separate from the speaker.

We now see two speakers. To disassemble the earphone further, we need to carefully remove them. To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws and take out the speakers.

After removing the speakers, you should have an arc and a side body (spoons). In one of the headphone cases, you will see a board. You need to carefully remove it. This must be done from the side of the speaker itself. Behind the speaker, you will see a plastic mount held in place by two bolts. To remove the board, we need to unscrew these bolts, then both the board and the mount itself can be easily removed.

Now you need to unsolder all the wires soldered to the board.

Separate the side case of the earphone from the arc.

To do this, first unscrew the bolts on the arc itself, then on the body. Then gently bend the inside of the case away from the outside (they are held on by snaps).

After that, calmly remove the necessary wires from the bifurcated case. You will have one arc left.

Now the headphones can be considered practically disassembled. If you wish, you can unscrew 4 more screws and detach the rubber bands from the latch to completely disassemble the arc. But, if you only need the wire from the arc, then it can be removed without problems immediately after completing step 7.

Removing the ear pads. To do this, turn them counterclockwise. The pads can be glued on, so to remove them you need to take a scalpel and carefully separate the pads from the body.

Now you need to remove the two speakers. To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver and remove the screws. Pull out the speakers themselves carefully.

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Now we carefully solder the wires from the speakers.

After that, we were left with only the arc and the side case with the wires sticking out of it. Now take a scalpel or flathead screwdriver and bend the inside of the case away from the outside (they are attached with a latch).

After bifurcating the side case, carefully pull out the wire. Only the arc remains intact.

If you want to disassemble it, unscrew 4 screws on it and detach the rubber bands from the latch.

The headphones are assembled back in the same way.

Consider the analysis of Sony headphones using the example of two well-known models Sony MDR XD100 and Sony MDR XB700.

There is nothing special about this model. Basically, the instructions and instructions are similar to the general one.

Removing the detail that holds the headphone mount:

We unwind the body of the earphone itself... To do this, you can first remove the ear cushions, but without removing the ear cushions, you can carefully find two bolts on opposite sides, as shown in the figure, unscrew them and remove the earphone, as we did:

On this the analysis of our earphone is over.

if you you need to disassemble it further, or you want to change the speaker, re-solder the wires, then you it is necessary to carefully unsolder two wires with a soldering iron coming from the speaker:

If you want or need, you can disassemble the remaining parts of the earphone by unscrewing the remaining bolts on the body.

Consider the parsing of these headphones using the example of replacing ear pads. Taking into account the fact that in this model it is not so easy to do it, I think this instruction will be useful to all owners of this and similar model.

Move aside neatly ear cushion and look for three bolts under the cushion on the case(two side by side and one separately on the opposite side).

If you don't want to disassemble the whole earphone, and just want to replace the ear pads, then you only need to unscrew one bolt- the second of the two that are side by side on the same side (as shown in the picture below).

To change ear pads, we need to carefully remove the clip ring and remove the ear pad.

Consider the analysis of droplets using the example of Philips vacuum headphones.

That's all. The earphone is disassembled. Also assembled in the reverse order. Only the previously glued parts will have to be glued again.

How to disassemble vacuum headphones:

Consider the analysis of droplets using the example of headphones from the iPhone - Apple EarPods. Any earbuds can be disassembled in the same way.

Dismantling the control panel:

The headset remote consists of the following components:

1. two plastic covers - one on top, the other on the bottom;
2. elastic band with buttons;
3. flexible fee;
4. oblong metal plate.

It is better to use a pick to disassemble the remote control. ?

That's all. Our remote is disassembled. ?

Earphone Apple EarPods

Earphone Apple EarPods

View of the disassembled earphone from the front and from the back:

Membrane Apple EarPods

Disassembled entirely Apple EarPods

How to disassemble the headphone plug?

How to disassemble headphones with microphone?

How to disassemble bluetooth headphones?

How to disassemble the earpiece speaker?

How to disassemble Sven headphones?

How to disassemble Sennheiser headphones?

a source

In the vast majority of cases, the cause of a headphone malfunction is a broken wire near connector, however, it also happens that the wire breaks at the input to the earphone. It also happens that you need to disassemble the earphone for some kind of mod. This is not always as easy as it seems. The article will show you how to disassemble a vacuum earphone similar to a standard Samsung headset and not only.

Each earphone has two main parts and they are well glued with glue, which makes it difficult to disassemble.

In order to disassemble the earpiece, first of all we pass the edge of a knife or blade along the joint of the parts in a circle:

For the sake of clarity, I will call the silver part in front of the speaker the front wall, and the back white part the headphone cup.

Tricks with a knife will not be enough, and in order to disassemble the earpiece, you will have to seek help from pliers:

If you take standard pliers, then jaggedness will remain on the earphone, so flat-nosed pliers without teeth are desirable. But even with this, you can damage the earpiece, for example, in my case, the coating has come off the ear cups a little - some kind of varnish, the existence of which I did not even suspect 🙂 so for greater accuracy it is better to press through a cloth.

With that how crush , figured it out, now let's figure it out why press ... The front wall is glued to more often with some kind of Chinese super-glue. This glue is very strong, but brittle. When squeezed with pliers, you will hear a slight crackling sound. If you can hear it, then you should not press harder, otherwise the earpiece itself will crunch. In this manner, gently squeeze in a circle along the joint.